We’re back for the second post in the doodle dress sew along! If you are just joining us for this Butterick Pattern 3350 Sew Along, go ahead and check out POST 1 to get yourself up to speed and prepared to start sewing!
Let’s dive right in shall we?
We ended our last meeting by cutting out our pattern pieces and now, we are ready to use them to cut the fabric pieces that we will sew. Beginners, I’m going to give you a little breakdown of all those strange looking rectangular diagrams on your pattern instructions. They are there to show you the best way to arrange your pattern pieces to get the most use out of your fabric. They also show you other information regarding exactly HOW your pieces should be cut. If this is your first time sewing with a pattern, check out the video below to learn how to use the cutting layouts on your instructions. If you already know how to do this, feel free to skip the video and move right along to cutting your fabric.
My fabric pieces are cut! Are yours?
Now here is where we may take different paths if we are doing different views. I’ll be referring to view G (one of the simpler views), since that is the one I’m doing and that is the one I think is the best for beginners. We are going to construct the bodice today.
Check your instructions for your view to see what step you should start with. You’ll see for view G – on page 4 of your instructions – it tells you to begin by following step 10.
Note: For all your sewing in this pattern, use a 5/8 inch seam allowance (per the pattern).
Step 10 is the constructing of the bodice, so take the fabric pieces you cut for the bodice and arrange one of the back sides against the front bodice, pretty sides together, and sew just along the shoulder, then do the same for the other side. It will look like this:
And if you open it up and lay it flat with the pretty sides facing you, it will look like this:
Now do the same exact thing with your bodice lining pieces, but this time, also turn in the seam allowances along the bottoms of the pieces and press them (this will come in handy later). That looks like this (you are looking at the wrong side of my lining fabric in this pic):
Now pin the outer fabric and lining pretty sides together and sew along the neck and armholes. Sewn together it looks like this. You are looking at the wrong side of my outer fabric and it is sewn, pretty sides facing, to the lining (which you can’t really see much of because it is on the other side). Just make sure you only sew the neck and armholes, and nothing else. It occurs to me that I should also remind you to clip your curved seam allowances. I did that before I moved on but hadn’t done it in my pictures yet. You can refer to the first column in page 2 of your instructions to see how the clipping should be done on the arm and neck curves.
You have completed step 10 and it is time, per the pattern instructions, to move on to step 9. Step 9 was confusing to me at first because I think they made it sound WAY more complicated than it really is. Basically, the first thing you need to do is turn your bodice so the lining is on the inside and the outer fabric is on the outside and it looks a little more like – you guessed it – a bodice. You can do that by reaching through the bottom of the bodice and up through the shoulders and pulling fabric through until it is all right-side-out. It should look like this when you finish:
Step 9 tells you to “understitch” as far as possible. Understitching is basically sewing the facing or lining to the seam allowance to keep the lining from being seen on the outside of the garment. I will admit at this point that I did not see how very much of this could be done and didn’t want to fight with it so I skipped this part. Lazy or smart? You decide. My dress doesn’t seem to be any worse for it, but if you would like to do this part and you have never done any understitching, check out this informational post from So Sew Easy. She explains understitching really well.
Next, separate the lining from the bodice so that the outer fabric front and back pieces are pretty sides together and the lining front and back pieces are pretty sides together and sew one continuous line along each side of the bodice. Here is one of the sides sewn:
Now turn it so that the bodice outer fabric is over the lining fabric and you should have what looks like a bodice!
We’ll leave off with that today. Believe it or not, this dress will be finished before you know it! Next week we will pick up with step 4. I can’t wait because that is when your dress will really start to take shape. Leave a comment or feel free to contact me with questions.